Rating: NR | Runtime: 240 minutes
Release Date: November 22nd, 2023 (USA)
Studio: Zipporah Films
Director(s): Frederick Wiseman

You pay the price for that.

It takes about three hours and forty minutes, but Frederick Wiseman finally shows us a moment where chef Michel Troisgros is captivating a table of customers at his Michelin-rated restaurant with the story of his family. We have gleaned a bit of it before then (that oldest son César manages that establishment with his father still very much involved while youngest son Leo manages the family’s second restaurant), but it’s nice to have it laid out with context and detail beyond our assumptions based solely on narrative clues.

Before then, Menus-plaisirs – Les Troisgros is all vibes. The clanking of glasses and clinging of silverware while everyone in the kitchen sautés and sears as orders are called out from the front. Something needs more salt. A plate is missing a component, yet no one is quite sure what beyond its absence. Chefs are working out how to adjust for food allergies (or taste like a client admitting he doesn’t like chocolate). And the organic meat, produce, and wine suppliers give us a brief explanation of their processes (the cheese monger even gives us a tour) to round everything off.

This is admittedly my first Wiseman film and I can see why so many people adore his work. Mostly, I can see why PBS adores it since the system-based, fly-on-the-wall documentary aesthetic provided really lends itself to the educational sphere above entertainment. It won’t be for everyone as a result. I personally don’t see a need to dive into the filmmaker’s past works solely based on his involvement. The style complements the scope of his subjects, but it doesn’t necessarily hold itself as a reason to watch on its own. You must be curious about the place and ready for an insane investment of time.

My enjoyment came from making fun of the customers and their pantomime of “affluence safely confined to a world of affluence” with no fear of my judgment at the moment of being filmed. I do not see the appeal to ever eat at an establishment like this, but I do totally respect the Troisgros clan as artists and their restaurants as their galleries.

Oh! And I’ll never forget that you must drain the blood from a brain before you blanch it. See, I’m cultured now.

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César Troisgros (right) with two of his chefs in MENUS-PLAISIRS – LES TROISGROS; courtesy of Zipporah Films.